Your CLUE Insurance Report Matters

Chip Plumley

Prudential Fox & Roach REALTORS^®

Your CLUE insurance report keeps your homeowners insurance claims alive for seven years--and that could cost you on your premiums.

A tree falls on the roof of your house. You file an insurance claim with your agent, collect a settlement from the insurer, and fix your roof. End of story, right? Not quite. Every claim you make on your homeowners insurance is recorded in a widely used insurance industry database called CLUE, short for Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange.

Almost all insurance companies use CLUE to check on the claims history of prospective policyholders. The CLUE insurance report also includes claims made on your home before you even bought it. A-PLUS is another company that maintains a loss-history database. What's inside these reports can affect your insurance premiums, or even prevent you from getting coverage.

Your claims history lives on in CLUE
The CLUE Personal Property report, which pertains to homeowners insurance, is divided into two parts: your personal record of claims ("Claims for the Subject") and the claims on your home ("Claims History for Risk"). The number of claims in either section will affect whether you can get insurance for your home, how much coverage you can get, and how much you'll pay in premiums. If you're turned down for homeowners insurance because of information in your CLUE report, your insurance company is required to let you know why you were rejected.

Since the database is used by most insurance companies, your claims history follows you from one insurer to another. Actual claims, as opposed to inquiries, remain in the CLUE database for seven years from the date you filed them. Both ChoicePoint, the owner of CLUE, and A-PLUS advise insurance carriers not to report loss information just because you called to ask a question about whether your policy will cover a particular loss. Individual insurance companies may keep a record of inquires, though.

How insurers use CLUE
Insurance companies rely on CLUE reports because statistics show that if you've filed a claim in the past, you're more likely to file one in the future, says Dick Luedke, a spokesperson for State Farm Insurance. The amount of a claim is less important than how often you've filed, he says. "We aren't trying to make up for past losses, but to predict the risk of future claims."

Each insurance company has its own formula for calculating how much a claim will affect your premium, according to the Insurance Information Institute, a trade group that provides information to consumers. Suffice it to say the fewer the claims the less you'll likely be charged. State Farm gives a 5% discount if you haven't filed a claim in the last five years, says Luedke. That's $40 off an average annual premium of $804. Ask your agent if a claim-free discount is available.

Claims aren't all that count
Knowing what's on your CLUE report will give you a sense of whether you'll need to pay extra for homeowners insurance, or even if you run the risk of rejection. Unfortunately, even a pristine report doesn't mean you can be sure of getting homeowners insurance at a great price. That's because the claims on your CLUE report aren't the only things that affect your overall insurance risk.

Insurance companies also consider your credit score, which is based on such things as how much debt you carry, whether you pay your bills on time, and so forth. According to the Insurance Information Institute, studies show that how people manage their finances is a good indicator of whether they'll file an insurance claim. The more likely you are to file a claim, the bigger risk you are to the insurance company. And more risk means a higher premium or denial of coverage. Other factors insurers consider include the location of your home and its type of construction.

How to review your CLUE report
If you do decide to check you CLUE Personal Property report, it's a relatively easy process. Under federal law, you get one free CLUE report a year. You can contact ChoicePoint by telephone at 800-456-6004. You can also register online to gain access to an electronic copy of your report for 30 days. Request a form to receive a Property Loss report from A-PLUS by calling 800-709-8842. There's a charge of $9 to have the report mailed to you, according to the company's website.

Your CLUE report will have:

•Your name, home address, birth date, and Social Security number;

•The number assigned to the report;

•The name of your insurance company;

•The type and number of the insurance policy;

•The type of loss-fire, water, etc.-for each claim and the claim number;

•The date of the loss and the amount of each claim;

•The status of each claim: closed, pending, etc.

The report also tells you how to dispute any errors you find. Because risk calculations vary by insurance company, it's impossible to say exactly how a claim on your CLUE report will affect your premium. That makes it tough to decide just how much value checking your CLUE yields. Still, taking less than an hour once a year to order and review your report could pay off, especially if you find an error.

Chip Plumley can be reached at (610) 444-9090 or (610) 357-8635. Prudential Fox & Roach is an independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc., a Prudential Financial company. Equal Housing Opportunity.

This article provides general information about insurance laws and consequences, but is not intended to be relied upon by readers as insurance or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Readers should consult an insurance professional for such advice, and are reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.

ChipPlumley.com

Tax Credits For Adding or Replacing Insulation

Chip Plumley

Prudential Fox & Roach REALTORS^®

Adding insulation is one of the easier and cheaper ways to improve your home's energy efficiency and cut your heating and cooling bills.


If putting a dent in your home's heating and cooling bills is a priority, then adding insulation needs to be at the top of your to-do list. It's a relatively affordable home-improvement project, and the savings can be felt almost immediately. Some DIYers can even tackle the project themselves over a weekend.


For a 2,200 square foot home, adding insulation to an attic can cost from $1,000 to $2,500 including labor, depending on how much you put in and how easy it is to install. Effort and expense go up when you add insulation to exterior walls or around hard-to-reach ductwork. A federal energy tax credit worth up to $1,500 can help defray the cost.


It all comes down to R-value
Insulation is measured in R-value, the resistance to heat flow. The higher the number the better the insulating power. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-values between 30 and 60 for most attics. Take a peek in yours. If your insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, then you probably need more.


There are different types of insulation, including fiberglass, cellulose, mineral wool, spray foam, foam board, and cotton batting. The most familiar is pink fiberglass roll insulation. If you're not sure what's best suited for your home, check with an insulation contractor. Just about all insulation qualifies for the energy tax credit (more below) as long as its primary purpose is to insulate-insulated siding, for example, doesn't count-and it brings your home up to recommended R-value guidelines.
Energy Star, a joint program of the DOE and U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, suggests R-38 insulation for most attics (or about 12-15 inches, depending on the insulation type). In colder climates, R-49 may be required. The DOE's online calculator can recommend R-values for all areas of your home's "envelope": attic, walls, floors, basement, and crawl spaces.


Generally, most homes built before 1980 have inadequate insulation. The easiest insulation to add is blown loose-fill insulation. You'll probably need to hire a contractor. Since insulating an attic isn't too complicated, you can get quotes-at least three-by phone. However, get a copy of the quote in writing before work starts, and be sure it specifies R-value. Michael Kwart, executive director of the Insulation Contractors Association of America, recommends rolled insulation for do-it-yourselfers. New insulation can be added on top of existing insulation.


Savings and sustainability can add up
Depending on where you live and how much insulation you already have, adding more can trim heating and cooling costs anywhere from 10% to 50%. A homeowner in the Northeast with an uninsulated attic, for instance, can save about $600 a year by adding about 15 inches of insulation (R-38) between the rafters, according to the Energy Department. Just 6 inches can net annual savings of about $200.


The $1,500 federal tax credit can be applied toward 30% of the cost of insulation installed in your primary residence during 2009 and 2010. Let's say you spend $1,760 on enough R-38 roll fiberglass to insulate the attic of your 2,200 square foot home. That's $40 per 50 square feet retail, a fair estimate. You'll be able to subtract $528 (30% of $1,760) straight off the top of your tax bill, as long as you paid more in federal taxes than you're claiming in credits. Since a typical homeowner won't be able to use up the entire tax credit on insulation alone, the remainder can be applied to other qualifying energy-efficiency upgrades like new windows or roofing. Just keep in mind that the total credit claimed for all of these improvements can't exceed $1,500 for the two-year period.


Save receipts, and if a contractor did the work, get a receipt that's itemized. Labor costs, typically 25% of the total bill, according to Kwart, don't count toward the tax credit. There's no need to file receipts when you claim the credit on Form 5695, but the IRS could ask you to cough one up later. Also hold on to product stickers from packaging that show R-values and manufacturers' certification statements that attest to tax-credit worthiness. Check manufacturers' websites for a copy of the statement. If you're building a new home, you're out of luck; only existing homes qualify for this tax credit, which can't be carried over into future years.
Adding insulation is just the beginning
In conjunction with adding new insulation, conduct a whole-house energy audit to find other ways to reduce power consumption and save even more on monthly bills. Caulk around drafty windows and doors, and stop gaps in siding and the foundation, says Matt Golden, president and founder of San Francisco-based Sustainable Spaces. Reducing a home's air leakage by 25% can lower annual energy costs by about $300, according to the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.

Chip Plumley can be reached at (610) 444-9090 or (610) 357-8635. Prudential Fox & Roach is an independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc., a Prudential Financial company. Equal Housing Opportunity.

This article provides general information about tax laws and consequences, but is not intended to be relied upon by readers as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Readers should consult a tax professional for such advice, and are reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.

ChipPlumley.com

Tax Credits for Replacing Heating and Cooling Systems

Chip Plumley

Prudential Fox & Roach REALTORS^®

Upgrading to an energy-efficient heating and cooling system can save hundreds on your utility bills and up to $1,500 on your tax bill.

Replacing an aging heating and cooling system can save you money on energy costs. According to Energy Star, the federal government's program to promote energy-efficient products and practices, the average household spends about $1,900 a year on energy bills, with about half of that amount going toward heating and cooling. Upgrading your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) to energy-efficient units can cut utility costs by about 20%, or $200 annually, on average.

This type of home improvement doesn't come cheap. Prices vary widely based on where you live, unit specifications, and the condition of your home, but figure a high-efficiency furnace will start at around $3,500, including installation, estimates Corbett Lunsford, executive director of Chicago-based Green Dream Group. A standard furnace may cost $2,400. To help offset the price difference, the IRS allows a tax credit worth up to $1,500 on eligible HVAC systems put into service during 2009 or 2010. Consult a tax adviser.

Pay attention to efficiency ratings

To earn an Energy Star rating, furnaces must be more efficient than standard units, with annual fuel utilization efficiency ratings, or AFUE, of 85% for oil furnaces and 90% for gas furnaces. The Energy Star seal of approval alone isn't enough to garner the federal tax credit. Credit-eligible gas furnaces (either natural gas or propane) must have AFUE ratings of 95% or greater; oil furnaces, 90%. A boiler must have an AFUE of 90%.

Heating by burning a fuel is inherently inefficient. Simply put, high-efficiency furnaces have components that are better designed to get more heat out of the combustion process, Lunsford says. You'll need to hire an HVAC contractor to calculate the size of the equipment needed for your home. Beware bidders who take a one-size-furnace-fits-all approach. Air source heat pumps and advanced main circulating fans can also qualify for the $1,500 tax credit.

Technically, a homeowner could replace either a furnace or a central air-conditioning unit and be eligible for the tax credit. Practically speaking, you probably will have to replace both for the A/C to qualify, says Enesta Jones, a spokeswoman for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Most homes have split systems made up of an outdoor condenser and compressor that are connected to an indoor air handler that's part of the furnace. Split systems must have a SEER rating of at least 16 and an EER rating of at least 13. The higher the rating, the more energy efficient the unit. A package A/C system, which houses all of its components outdoors, requires lower ratings.

HVAC's value goes beyond savings

It typically takes about a decade's worth of energy savings to recoup the investment in a new HVAC system, Lunsford says, though that time frame can vary greatly depending on how much fuel prices fluctuate. Less apparent in dollar terms are increasing the comfort level in your home and lowering your household's drain on non-renewable fossil fuels. Then there's the effect on your home's value when it comes time to sell.

You're going to enhance a home's salability by moving to a more energy-efficient heating and cooling system, says Frank Lesh, president of Home Sweet Home Inspection Co. in Indian Head Park, Ill. That doesn't mean adding a $5,000 furnace will add $5,000 to the sale price. Rather, potential buyers are less likely to push for repairs or negotiate a credit if the HVAC is in good shape. Evaluate systems older than 10 years for possible replacement.

But before you do, conduct a wider energy audit of your home. Lunsford, also manager of consumer education for the U.S. Green Building Council's Chicago Chapter, says he rarely recommends replacing a furnace as the first step in making a home more energy efficient. Instead, start by sealing it against air leaks. Do-it-yourself caulking and weather-stripping help, as does adding insulation in the attic. Professional air sealing, which is more effective, can cost as much as $5,000 for a large house, he says. The payoff: Energy costs should go down, and you might be able to get by with a smaller HVAC system.

Getting tax credit for your upgrades

The federal energy tax credit is based on 30% of the cost of an eligible HVAC system. Installation charges count too. A $5,000 bill would max out the credit. You'll need to owe more in taxes than you're trying to claim in credits to qualify. Use IRS Form 5695. Save receipts for your records, as well as manufacturers' certification statements. If part of a new HVAC system qualifies for the credit but another part doesn't, ask the contractor to itemize the receipt.

The tax credit is aggregated for all qualifying energy upgrades-insulation, roofs, windows, and so on-so you can't claim separate $1,500 credits for each project. Only improvements to your existing primary residence count. New homes and second homes are excluded.

Chip Plumley can be reached at (610) 444-9090 or (610) 357-8635. Prudential Fox & Roach is an independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc., a Prudential Financial company. Equal Housing Opportunity.

This article provides general information about tax laws and consequences, but is not intended to be relied upon by readers as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Readers should consult a tax professional for such advice, and are reminded that tax laws may vary by jurisdiction.

ChipPlumley.com

Timing Couldn’t Be Much Better for First-time Homebuyers--Be Sure You Make the Right Moves

Chip Plumley

Prudential Fox & Roach REALTORS^®

First-time homebuyers dominated the U.S. real estate market in 2009, accounting for roughly half of all residential transaction, according to the National Association of REALTORS®.

That trend is likely to continue well into the new year. That’s because interest rates are hovering near all-time lows, home-price affordability is near all-time highs and a third factor – Congress’ extension of the first-time homebuyer tax credit until April 30, 2010 – make conditions quite favorable for those considering homeownership for the first time.

Still, with the prospect of making one of the largest investments you'll ever make in your life, you can easily become overwhelmed. Some of the questions you may be asking are: Will I be able to afford the home of my dreams? Do I have enough money for a down payment? Will I qualify for the tax credit? Will I make smart home buying decisions? If you go into the process prepared, your first purchase – like the current timing – can be just right.

Resources--Before starting out, educate yourself on the process. Attend a homebuyer seminar in your market, and check out myriad real estate resources online. Among those helpful online resources is prudentialrealestate.com, through which you can access millions of property listings and gain environmental reports, property profiles and value-range estimates for just about any residence in America.

Your real estate professional also is a great resource. Don't hesitate to let him or her know that you are new to the process. Your real estate professional will expect you to have questions at each step, from house hunting to making an offer through closing.

The costs involved in the purchase of a home can seem overwhelming to first-time homebuyers. There are mortgage costs, the down payment, and closing costs to think about.

Affordability--By looking at your income and debt ratio, your sales professional can help you calculate how much you can afford each month in mortgage payments. But before determining your price range, you should also take into consideration other factors that will affect your monthly budget once you are a homeowner, such as property taxes, insurance, homeowner association dues, utilities and maintenance. And if your down payment is less than 20 percent of the cost of the home, you will be responsible for private mortgage insurance, more commonly referred to as PMI.

Mortgage payment--Fear of being rejected for a home loan is one of the main concerns for first-time homebuyers. To lessen the stress, you may want to get pre-approved for a loan before looking at prospective homes. This will not only help you feel more confident, it will also give you an advantage where there are multiple offers for a specific property. In addition, the fact that your loan has already been approved is of great value to the seller because it shortens the purchase process, and there is less of a chance that the buyer will back out of the sale. If you don’t have a specific mortgage lender in mind, ask your sales professional for a recommendation.

Down payment--The down payment amount varies depending on the value of the home you choose and your mortgage lender. Your real estate professional will be able to explain the different options available to you.

Tax credit--The first-time homebuyer tax credit, a key component of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, equates to as much as $8,000, or 10% of a principal residence’s purchase price, and is available to those who have not owned a principal residence in the past three years. You can use the tax credit to help purchase your home or help pay for its closing costs, or the credit can be used to remodel, refurnish and repair your property. See your tax advisor for details about the tax-credit program and how you may benefit.

Making offers--Don't feel pressured into making an offer on the first home you see. This is a common mistake of many first-time homebuyers. Make sure you view different homes to get a feel for the marketplace. When you decide on a home to make a bid on, work with your real estate professional to get all of your questions answered before making an offer. But don't wait too long to make an offer. The longer you wait, the greater the chance other prospective buyers may place offers, making it harder for you to negotiate a good deal.

Above all, remember there are no silly questions. Make sure you understand and are comfortable with every aspect of the transaction. Your real estate professional can be an invaluable asset in helping you make educated decisions so that your first home purchase is a rewarding experience.

Chip Plumley can be reached at (610) 444-9090 or (610) 357-8635. Prudential Fox & Roach is an independently owned and operated member of Prudential Real Estate Affiliates, Inc., a Prudential Financial company. Equal Housing Opportunity.

ChipPlumley.com